Papago Park in Phoenix: Hole-in-the-Rock, Red Buttes, Hunt's Tomb and the Fishing Ponds
Some of my favorite Arizona outings don't need a long drive at all. Papago Park sits right where Phoenix, Tempe and Scottsdale meet, a few minutes from the airport, and it still feels like a little piece of the wild Sonoran Desert. Red sandstone buttes rise up out of the saguaros, there's a famous hole in a rock you can climb into, a white pyramid sits on a hill, and families fish for catfish in the lagoons below.
November is about as good as it gets here. The mornings are cool, the light turns the buttes a deep orange and you can comfortably spend a whole day bouncing between the trails, the ponds and the Desert Botanical Garden next door. Here's my guide to Papago Park, with what to see, current hours and a few tips I've picked up along the way.
Papago Park at a Glance
Here are the basics before you go, based on the City of Phoenix's official Papago Park page:
Address: 625 N. Galvin Parkway, Phoenix, AZ 85008
Cost: The park itself is free. The Phoenix Zoo and Desert Botanical Garden charge their own admission.
Parking and entrance hours: East of Galvin Parkway, 5 a.m. to 7 p.m. West of Galvin Parkway, sunrise to sunset.
Trail hours: 5 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Ranger office: 602-495-5458
That last hours detail matters. The trails stay open later than the parking lots, so if you're doing a sunset walk, make sure you're back to your car before the gates close. Hours can change, so I always double-check the city page before heading out.
A Little Papago Park History
Papago Park has a long, layered story. The Hohokam lived in this area centuries ago, and many people believe they used the opening in Hole-in-the-Rock to track the sun's position through the seasons.
In 1914, President Woodrow Wilson set aside land here as Papago Saguaro National Monument. That status didn't last, and the land eventually came under state and city management. Over the years, the area has hosted a fish hatchery, a World War II prisoner-of-war camp and a veterans' facility. Today, it's one of the most-loved city parks in the Valley, home to hiking trails, the zoo, the botanical garden, a golf course, ball fields and museums.
Hole-in-the-Rock
If you only do one thing at Papago Park, make it Hole-in-the-Rock. It's the park's signature landmark: a large opening worn into a red sandstone butte by wind and water over a very long time. You can scramble up into the chamber and look out over the lagoons, the Phoenix skyline and the planes landing at Sky Harbor.
The trail. The Hole-in-the-Rock Trail is very short, only about 0.2 to 0.3 miles depending on the route you take, but it includes steps and a short, steep climb on the back side of the butte. Wear shoes with good grip, because the sandstone can be slippery with loose gravel.
When to go. Sunset is the classic time, and it gets busy. I actually prefer sunrise. It's quieter, cooler and the morning light falls right on the buttes. Either way, plan to share the space, especially on weekends.
Tips for Hole-in-the-Rock:
Bring water, even in fall. Our dry air will sneak up on you.
Watch your footing on the way down. Most slips happen there.
Dogs are allowed, but keep them leashed and bring water for them too.
Don't climb on top of the rock. Stay on the established trail and inside the main chamber.
The Red Buttes and Easy Trails
Papago's trails are mostly flat and smooth, which makes the park great for beginners, families, runners and mountain bikers. The park is split by Galvin Parkway into east and west sides.
East side trails:
Hole-in-the-Rock Trail. The short climb into the famous opening.
Nature Trail. A half-mile gravel loop through the heart of the park with many desert plants labeled. It's a great way to learn to tell a palo verde from a mesquite.
Ranger Office Loop. A paved, easy loop along the main park road past ramadas and restrooms.
Crosscut Canal Path. A wide, flat canal-bank trail that passes the Desert Botanical Garden and the Phoenix Zoo.
West side trails:
Double Butte Loop. A 2.3-mile loop around the big and small buttes. This is my pick for the best overall Papago experience, with lots of rock views and saguaros.
Galvin Bikeway. A paved path connecting the zoo, the garden and the park.
The west side parking lot on Papago Park Drive has a drinking fountain and a picnic ramada but no restrooms, while the east side has restrooms near the ramadas. A good pair of trail running shoes or light hikers is plenty for any of these trails.
Hunt's Tomb: The White Pyramid on the Hill
One of the strangest and coolest sights in Papago Park is a gleaming white pyramid on top of a hill near the zoo. That's Hunt's Tomb, the resting place of George W. P. Hunt, Arizona's first governor.
Hunt served seven terms as governor between 1912 and 1933. When his wife, Helen, died in 1931, he had the pyramid built as her tomb. He'd been fascinated by the pyramids of Egypt on their travels together. The tomb was completed in 1932, and Hunt was laid to rest there after his death in 1934. Other family members are entombed there too. The site was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2008.
A short path leads up to the tomb from a parking area on the east side of the hill. The tomb itself is fenced, but the views from the top are excellent: the zoo, Hole-in-the-Rock, Camelback Mountain and the east Valley spreading out below. It's a quick, easy side trip that most visitors skip.
Fishing at the Papago Ponds
Down below the buttes, the Papago Ponds (sometimes called the lagoons) are a surprise for first-time visitors. There are three ponds totaling about six acres, and they're part of the Arizona Game and Fish Department's Community Fishing Program, which means they're stocked with fish through the year.
According to the AZGFD's Papago Ponds page:
Park hours for the ponds: 6 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Daily bag limits: 2 catfish, 2 trout, 1 bass (13-inch minimum), 5 sunfish and 1 white amur (30-inch minimum).
Rules: No swimming, wading, boating, glass containers or littering.
Catfish stockings usually run through early fall, and trout tend to arrive in the cooler winter months. Stocking dates change from year to year, so check AZGFD's schedule before you go.
Anglers need a valid Arizona fishing license, so pick one up from AZGFD before casting. A simple beginner fishing rod and reel combo and a few worms or PowerBait are all you need to give the kids a fun morning.
Desert Botanical Garden
Right next door, the Desert Botanical Garden is one of my favorite places in the state, and I've written about a cool morning walk at Desert Botanical Garden before. The garden is packed with desert plants from around the world, with shady trails, wildflower displays and seasonal art.
As of this writing, the garden lists daily hours of 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. through Dec. 31 at 1201 N. Galvin Parkway, with adult admission starting at $32.95 and children (2 to 17) from $14.95. Fall events are running now, and the popular Las Noches de las Luminarias starts the weekend after Thanksgiving. If you're a gardener, this is the best place I know to get ideas for desert-friendly plants for your own yard.
The Phoenix Zoo
The Phoenix Zoo is also inside the Papago Park area, just south of Hunt's Tomb. It's a big, walkable zoo with a strong focus on desert and endangered animals. Fall and winter are the best seasons to visit, since the animals are more active in the cooler weather. Check the zoo's website for current hours and tickets.
Other Things to Do at Papago Park
There's more packed into this park than most people realize:
Hall of Flame Museum of Firefighting, a fun stop for kids and anyone who loves vintage fire engines. Details are on the Hall of Flame website.
Papago Golf Course, a well-known public course.
Archery range and an orienteering course.
Picnic ramadas. Note that Papago Park ramadas require a reservation, unlike most Phoenix park ramadas.
Photography. The buttes at golden hour are a classic Phoenix photo spot.
Plan Your Day at Papago Park
Here's how I'd spend a full fall day:
Sunrise at Hole-in-the-Rock. Beat the crowds and catch the morning light.
Walk the Double Butte Loop on the west side while it's still cool.
Visit Hunt's Tomb for the view.
Spend late morning or early afternoon at the Desert Botanical Garden or the Phoenix Zoo.
Picnic or fish at the Papago Ponds in the afternoon.
Sunset from the buttes, keeping an eye on parking gate times.
Bring a refillable insulated water bottle, sunscreen and a hat, even in November. The Arizona sun is strong year-round.
Best Time of Year to Visit
Papago Park is open year-round, but the experience changes a lot with the seasons.
Fall (October to November). My favorite. Cool mornings, warm afternoons and great light on the buttes.
Winter (December to February). Crisp mornings and comfortable midday hikes. Trout season at the ponds and holiday events at the garden and zoo.
Spring (March to April). Wildflowers and cactus blooms, plus the busiest crowds of the year. Go early.
Summer (May to September). Only for very early mornings. Temperatures climb fast, and the exposed rock holds heat. If you go, be off the trail by mid-morning and carry far more water than you think you need.
No matter the season, weekday mornings are the calmest time to visit.
A Few Visitor Tips
Arrive early on weekends. The Hole-in-the-Rock lot fills fast.
Know the gate times. Parking closes before the trails do.
Stay on trails. The desert crust and plants are fragile.
Pack out trash. Help keep the park beautiful.
Watch for wildlife. Look for Gambel's quail, roadrunners, cottontails and ducks around the ponds.
A Desert Escape in the Middle of the City
Papago Park is proof that you don't need a long road trip to feel the desert. In one morning, you can climb into a sandstone window, stand next to a governor's pyramid, watch kids reel in a catfish and wander through one of the best botanical gardens in the country. On a cool fall day, it's hard to beat.
Have you been to Hole-in-the-Rock at sunrise or sunset? Tell me which you prefer in the comments, and what else you like to do in Papago Park.
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