Growing Shallots in Arizona: Planting, Care, Harvest and Kitchen Uses

Every fall I tuck a handful of shallots into the garden and then mostly forget about them until spring. That's one of the things I love about this crop. You plant one small bulb in November, give it water and a little food through the cool months, and by late spring that single bulb has split into a tight cluster of five, eight, sometimes a dozen new shallots. It feels like the garden is doing math on your behalf.

Shallots are also one of the best-kept secrets for Arizona vegetable gardeners. They love our mild winters, they shrug off light frost, they don't need much room, and they store for months once they're cured. Here's how I plant, grow, harvest and use them in the desert.

Why Shallots Belong in an Arizona Garden

Shallots are part of the onion family, but they behave a little differently than the big storage onions most people picture. Instead of making one large bulb, a shallot multiplies into a cluster of smaller bulbs, a lot like garlic does.

Here's why they work so well for us:

• They're a cool-season crop. Our low-desert winters are basically perfect shallot weather: cool nights, sunny days and very few hard freezes.

• They're forgiving. A light frost won't hurt them, and they don't need perfect soil to produce.

• They store well. Properly cured shallots often keep six months or more in a cool, dark spot.

• You get two crops. You can snip some of the green tops in winter and use them like scallions or chives, then still harvest bulbs in spring.

When to Plant Shallots in Arizona

Timing is the single most important thing for shallots in the desert. In the low desert (Phoenix, Tucson, Yuma and similar elevations), I plant shallot bulbs from October through December, with November being my sweet spot. That gives them the whole cool season to grow leaves and roots before warm spring days push them to form bulbs.

If you're starting shallots from seed, start earlier. Sow seed in September or October so the seedlings have time to bulk up before the shortest days of winter.

In higher-elevation areas like Prescott, Flagstaff or the White Mountains, the calendar flips. Winters there are too cold for most of the season, so shallots are usually planted in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked, and harvested in mid to late summer.

Choosing Shallots to Plant

You can grow shallots from bulbs (often called "sets") or from seed.

From bulbs. This is the easiest route and the one I recommend for first-timers. Each bulb you plant produces a cluster. I'd skip grocery store shallots; they're sometimes treated to stop sprouting. You can find shallot bulbs for planting online in the fall.

A few common types:

• French gray shallots (griselle) are the chef's favorite, with gray-brown skin and a rich, strong flavor. They don't store as long as others, so use them first.

• Red or copper shallots have pinkish-purple flesh, a nice balance of flavor and good storage life.

• Dutch yellow shallots are mild, productive and usually the best keepers.

From seed. Varieties like 'Ambition', 'Conservor' and 'Prisma' are bred to grow from seed. If you want to try it, shallot seeds are worth a packet or two.

Preparing the Bed

Shallots want loose, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Our native desert soil tends to be alkaline, low in organic matter and sometimes heavy with clay or caliche, so a raised bed or well-amended in-ground bed makes a big difference.

Here's how I prep:

1. Pick a sunny spot. Shallots need at least six hours of direct sun. In winter, that's easy to find in most Arizona yards.

2. Loosen the soil 8 to 10 inches deep. Bulbs need room to swell, and compacted soil leads to small, misshapen clusters.

3. Mix in 2 to 3 inches of compost. This improves drainage in clay and helps sandy soils hold moisture.

4. Add a balanced fertilizer at planting time, following the package rate. A granular vegetable fertilizer is fine.

5. Water the bed a day or two before planting so the soil is evenly moist, not muddy.

If you garden in containers, shallots do great in a wide planter at least 8 inches deep. A fabric grow bag in the 10- to 15-gallon range can hold eight or so shallots comfortably.

How to Plant Shallot Bulbs

Planting shallots is about as simple as it gets:

1. Separate clustered bulbs into individual bulbs if they're stuck together, but don't peel them.

2. Plant pointy end up, with the bottom (root end) down.

3. Set the bulbs so the tip is just at or slightly below the soil surface. Unlike garlic, shallots don't want to be buried deep. About 1 inch of soil over the shoulders is plenty in our dry climate.

4. Space bulbs 6 to 8 inches apart in rows about 12 inches apart. In a raised bed, I use a simple grid with 6 to 8 inches in every direction.

5. Water gently but thoroughly to settle the soil.

Watering Through the Winter

Shallots have shallow roots, so they can't reach far for water. The goal is evenly moist soil, not soggy and not bone dry.

In the low desert during winter, that usually means watering about once or twice a week, depending on your soil, rainfall and whether you're in a raised bed (which dries faster). Stick a finger in the soil. If the top inch or two is dry, it's time to water. Drip irrigation or a soaker hose is ideal because it keeps water off the leaves and puts it right where the roots are.

As spring arrives and temperatures climb, the plants will need more frequent watering while the bulbs are swelling. Then, once the tops start to yellow and flop over, cut back sharply. That signals the bulbs are maturing, and too much water at that stage can lead to rot and poor storage.

Feeding Shallots

Shallots appreciate steady nutrition early, then less as they mature. My routine:

• At planting: balanced fertilizer mixed into the bed, plus compost.

• Every 3 to 4 weeks through winter: a light side-dressing of a nitrogen-rich fertilizer, or a liquid fish or seaweed feed. This is when the plants are building leaves, and every leaf is part of the "engine" that will feed the bulbs later.

• Once bulbs start to swell (usually late February to March): stop feeding nitrogen. Extra nitrogen at this point encourages more top growth instead of bigger bulbs and can make them store poorly.

Weeding and Everyday Care

Shallots don't compete well with weeds. I hand-pull weeds weekly in winter, gently, so I don't disturb the bulbs. A narrow hand weeder is handy for getting in between plants.

A few other care notes:

• Frost: Shallots handle light frost without help. If a hard freeze in the 20s is in the forecast, a sheet of frost cloth overnight is cheap insurance, especially for young plants.

• Flower stalks: If a plant sends up a flower stalk, snap it off. You want the plant's energy going into the bulbs.

Pests and Problems

Compared to many vegetables, shallots are pretty trouble-free in Arizona. The main things I watch for:

• Thrips. These tiny insects cause silvery streaks on leaves and get worse as spring warms up. A strong spray of water or insecticidal soap usually keeps them in check.

• Rot. Poor drainage and overwatering are the usual culprits. If bulbs feel soft or smell bad, cut back on water and improve drainage next season.

• Birds and critters. Netting early in the season solves most of this.

When and How to Harvest

In the low desert, most fall-planted shallots are ready in late spring, usually April to May. You'll know because the green tops start to turn yellow and flop over. When about half to three-quarters of the tops have fallen over, stop watering and let the soil dry for a few days.

To harvest:

1. Loosen the soil around the cluster with a garden fork, working a few inches away from the bulbs so you don't stab them.

2. Lift the whole cluster gently by hand.

3. Brush off loose soil, but don't wash the bulbs.

4. Leave the tops on for curing.

Curing and Storing Shallots

Curing is what turns fresh shallots into keepers. Spread the clusters out in a single layer in a warm, dry, shady spot with good air flow, like a covered patio, carport or garage with the door open. Keep them out of direct Arizona sun, which can scald them. A mesh drying rack works well if you're short on space.

Let them cure for two to three weeks, until the necks are completely dry and the outer skins are papery. Then:

• Trim the tops to about an inch above the bulb.

• Trim the roots.

• Separate the clusters into individual bulbs.

• Store them in a cool, dry, dark place with good airflow. Mesh produce bags or a basket work great.

Save some of your biggest, healthiest bulbs to replant in the fall. That's how you build a shallot supply that basically pays for itself year after year.

How I Use Shallots in the Kitchen

Once you have a stash, you'll find a use for shallots almost every day. Some of my favorites:

• Simple shallot vinaigrette: finely minced shallot, a splash of vinegar, a pinch of salt, Dijon mustard and olive oil. Let the shallot sit in the vinegar for 10 minutes first to soften its bite.

• Crispy fried shallots: thinly sliced and fried low and slow in oil until golden. Sprinkle them on salads, soups, green beans and rice bowls.

• Roasted whole shallots: toss peeled shallots with olive oil and salt and roast until soft and sweet. Great next to roasted chicken or root vegetables.

Shallot Planting Checklist

• Plant bulbs October through December in the low desert (seed in September or October).

• Plant tips at or just below the surface, 6 to 8 inches apart.

• Keep soil evenly moist through winter; increase in spring, then cut back when tops yellow.

• Feed nitrogen through winter, then stop once bulbs start to swell.

• Harvest when half or more of the tops have fallen over, usually April to May.

• Cure two to three weeks in shade, then store cool, dry and dark.

• Save your best bulbs to replant next fall.

A Small Crop With a Big Payoff

Shallots are one of those crops that make me feel like a smarter gardener than I am. They fit into the corners of a winter bed, they ask for very little and they hand back a basket of beautiful copper bulbs right when the rest of the cool-season garden is winding down. If you've never grown them, this is a great year to start. Grab a few bulbs, tuck them in this month and come spring you'll be cutting your own shallots for every vinaigrette and pan sauce you make.

Are you growing shallots this winter, or sticking with onions and garlic? Let me know what you're planting in the comments.